Hedi Slimane Departs Celine: A New Chapter for LVMH’s Iconic Brand
In a surprising move that reverberated through the fashion industry, Hedi Slimane has stepped down as creative director of LVMH’s Celine, marking the end of a five-year tenure that reshaped the iconic French maison. The news, confirmed by LVMH on Wednesday, comes at a time of notable change within the luxury sector, as brands grapple with shifting market dynamics and evolving consumer preferences. Slimane’s departure adds to a growing list of high-profile exits, intensifying speculation about the future of creative leadership in fashion.
Slimane, who joined Celine in 2018, quickly made his mark with a rebellious, rocker-chic aesthetic that was both a departure from the brand’s established bourgeois roots and a reflection of his distinct creative voice. Known for his razor-sharp shinny silhouettes – a style that left an indelible mark on Dior Homme and Yves Saint Laurent before Celine – Slimane infused the house with a youthful energy, epitomized by ad campaigns starring model Kaia Gerber. Under his direction, Celine introduced menswear, fragrances, and makeup, all while appealing to a new generation of consumers with cropped tops, faded jeans, and luxe leather accessories.
Despite Slimane’s creative vision, his departure coincided with industry-wide challenges. Luca Solca, a luxury goods analyst at Bernstein, noted that creative directors often exit when their designs no longer drive sales. “Like artists, creative directors tend to produce variations on a theme, which can become predictable”, Solca commented, suggesting that Slimane’s aesthetic may have lost its edge with consumers. Still, Slimane’s impact on Celine cannot be understated – industry insiders estimate that he more than doubled the brand’s revenue, bringing it close to 2.5 billion euros.
LVMH Chairman and CEO Bernard Arnault had set ambitious goals for Slimane when he took the helm at Celine, aiming to grow annual revenue to between 2 billion and 3 billion euros within five years. By January of this year, Celine was reportedly surpassing 2 billion euros in sales, a testament to Slimane’s influence. Yet, as luxury sales face a downturn – particularly in China, where middle-class consumers are rethinking purchases amid economic uncertainty – brands like Celine are contending with what some analysts call “Brand Fatigue”.
As Slimane departs, Michael Rides has been names his successor. Rider, who worked alongside former Celine designer Phoebe Philo for over a decade, will take on the role early next year. This appointment signals a potential return to a more classic Celine aesthetic, with Rider’s history tied to the minimalist elegance that defined Philo’s era at the brand. The transition also coincides with broader shifts at LVMH, including its recent investment in Moncler and the sale of streetwear label Off-White.
Slimane’s exit follows the departure of several other top designers this year, including Virginie Viard from Chanel, leaving many to wonder what the future holds for the upper echelons of fashion’s creative leadership. While Slimane remains a figure of significant influence, his next move is yet to be announced, and the industry will be watching closely. His departure from Celine marks the end of a bold chapter for the brand but opens the door to new possibilities under Rider’s direction. As fashion continues to evolve in a challenging global market, LVMH will undoubtedly look to new leadership to guide Celine through its next phase of growth and reinvention.